First light, last light

30 Sep

First flush

First light appeared around 7, when I’d already been awake four hours. Twilight crept in around 7, too.

There was a full day in between.

There was an impromptu visit to Chantilly and its magnificent chateau, built for Marshal and Constable of France Anne de Montmorency in the fifteenth century and lovingly preserved ever since by generations of French warrior princes.

There was almond essence wafting up from the patisserie below my writing window in the chill at 4am. It smelled warm, comforting, companionable. And yet, I’m normally repelled by almond essence.

There was the forgotten statue of Gaspard de Coligny, still imprisoned as ever the Huguenots were, behind a tall iron cage with crumbling foundations, surprising me just as it surprised me the first time I saw it.

There were the cheery green crosses announcing pharmacies, every 100 metres or so. Years ago, when my feet were blistered and bruised and bleeding from walking the cobbled streets, I was very glad Paris is apparently a city of hypochondriacs. Today it made me smile again.

There was the most delicious, subtle salmon mousse on crusty bread at lunch. I was proud to be able to string together the French for “I want to lick my plate.” it made the waitress laugh, anyway.

There was that oh-so-seductive French whisper just behind my left ear, on the coach all the way home from Chantilly. Not speaking to me, not understood by me, but still…

There was the most absurd traffic jam. Truly. I thought Mumbai had the stubbornest, stupidest drivers but it turns out that prize goes to Paris.

There was goats cheese and more baguette and fresh raspberries for supper. A little under five euros for this epicurean splurge.

2015-09-30 03.56.09Je suis très fatigué.

Tonight, it feels wonderful.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: